|Found cardboard boxes
(S-4177) that fit shelves. They do offer more
efficient use of the volume but have a problem with
accessing items on the bottom of the box. If
filled solid with books or paper, etc. one box can be
too heavy to move.
Three boxes fit on the large spaced shelves.
|at the right side of
Made four drawers from two cardboard boxes. They do not "stack". The heavier the drawer the less likely it will stack. When pulling out a drawer with one or more drawers above it, the upper drawers drop down. But so far that's not a problem. It does not happen all at once. With small drawers the contents are not too heavy.
|11 Feb 2008 a simple
The wood thinkness wasts a lot of space.
Front, Back * Sides: 1x3 solid wood
Bottom: 1/2" plywood
Just to try the construction made a drawer for one of the shelves in front of my desk. The opening is:
8.375 wide x 3.25 high x 11.75 deep, about 320 cu in.
The inside of the drawer is 8 wide x 2.75 hi (3.25 - .5) x 10.5 deep, about 231 cu in i.e. is only 72% efficient.
This is simple construction using 1x for the front.
Just looking at the surface area: 98 sq in for the case and 84 for the drawer, or 85%.
|12 Feb 2008 - Drawer
made from USPS Priority Box cardboard. I get a
number of items shipped in Priority boxes and so have
this material on hand. Looking for a source of
it new for a battery adapter, if you know tell me.
This drawer has 0.066" thick walls and bottom. Notice the tape dispenser and next to it the stapler are standing. This is a great solution. The only problem that needs to get fixed is when you pull out the drawer you also pull out the shelf. When the shelf gets a couple of inches out it falls off the rear support pins. There are a number of ways to fix that, need to think about which to use.
S-4177 Box flat as shipped
28 7/8" wide x 23 1/4" high
S-4173 Box flat as shipped.
28 7/8" wide x 17 7/8" high.
Inside: 17 1/4" deep x 11 1/4" wide x 12 1/8" high w/ folding lid on top.
Outside: 17 1/2" deep x 11 1/2" wide x 11 7/8" high
17 1/4" x 11 1/4" wide x 6" high w/folding lid on top
Outside: 17 1/2" deep x 11 1/2" wide x 6 5/8" high
|Replacing board and brick
shelving is an industrial metal storage rack. The
vertical columns are 36" long allowing the rack to be
built either as shown at the left as one tall shelving
unit, or they can be fitted side by side forming a 6'
wide shelving unit that's 3' high. There are a
couple of coupling pins in the box to link the two side
by side units together.
Outside dimensions: 36 1/2" wide x 18 1/2" deep x 72" high.
The height between the top of a shelf and the lip of the next higher shelf starting at the bottom is:
14 1/2", 14 1/2", 16", 14 1/2", to ceiling.
The center shelf must be installed halfway so as to link the top and bottom columns.
The width at the front between the two angle iron columns is 33 3/4". Since the above boxes are 11 1/2" wide three of them need 34 1/2" which is a little more than the front gap width, but by either placing the left and right boxes first or by pushing the existing boxes all the way to the other side and angling the side box you can easily place three boxes side by side.
In the lower left corner of the photo you can just see the wood of another shelving unit that will shortly also be replaced by another of these PR1200 Pro racks.
|After putting some of the
boxes on the shelves. The half height boxes (
S-4173) have had their top flaps folded down inside and
so are more like deep trays than boxes. Because of
that the top box may not sit squarely on the one under
it, but that's no big thing. Having the tops open
makes it very easy to access the contents.
Note the top shelf has not been used yet. This is not the final arrangement of boxes and test equipment.
In the lower left of the photo you can see the wood bookcase with the FAX on top that will be replaced very shortly.
|There is another size of
shelving unit that looks very similar to this one except
the shelves are 24" deep instead of 18" deep. It
takes up more floor space and since I don't have boxes
that are modular to that depth (i.e. 24" deep, or 12"
deep, etc.) it's not a good choice for me. Maybe
good if the correct boxes were available.
|These are being assembled in a shipping container.
One person Assembly Dateline Products Model 01200
Same for the Gorilla Rack shelving
Note: install shelf boards as each level is completed as a check
to be sure that the locking pins are properly aligned.
If they are not the shelf will no fit.
|Adding top angle uprights
Bracket Detail 1-1/2", 2-1/5" & 1-1/2" brackets.
I'd like to use the closet in my work room (spare bedroom) to store cardboard boxes as described above by adding shelving made up of 1" x 12" lumber which is really 3/4" (19mm) x 11-1/4". Two 1 x 12 shelves side by side will make a shelf that's 23" deep. From the back of the closet molding to the back wall is 23-1/2" so they will just fit.
To join the shelving and risers Häfele Minifit cam lock connectors and both single ended and double ended pins will be used.It turns out these fittings are nearly impossible to get and require a precision fixture so that they will properly line up. So plain old screws will be used.
My existing 3 foot span bookcases have some bow in the shelves because books are heavy. So the unsupported span for these shelves will be just over two feet. The vertical supports are four pieces of 1/2" plywood.
The design is based on two free standing cabinets with additional shelves installed between them after the two cabinets are placed inside the closet.
It was necessary to remove the two metal support brackets and the clothes hanger rod in order to fit the shelving.
Each shelf is made up of two 1" pine boards1 1 x 8" and x 10". All but four of the No.8 by 1-1/2" screws in a box of 100 were used as well as 24 right angle brackets for the center shelves. The long brackets used between the two boards are Ace Hardware 5289277 2-1/2" Inside Corner Brackets and the short brackets used at the front and back are 1-1/2" by 3/4" 206-920 Inside Corner Brackets both of which are held on their sides by No. 8 by 5/8" screws and only the 2 top center shelves have screws up into the bottom of the shelves installed. The other center shelves are just sitting by gravity.
|The left 20' shipping
container is full and the one at the right is empty.
The flat bed truck that delivered the new container needs a few
feet on all sides so that the tie down straps can be removed. So
the new container is not cheek to jowl to the old one.
|See the 48" High Lift Farm Jack
page for information on moving the new container.
The local building code has a provision for storage buildings where no permit is required if they meet some rules:
"1. What types of projects do not require a building permit?
a. One story detached accessory buildings used as tool and storage sheds, play houses and similar uses, provided the floor area does not exceed 120 square feet (electrical service requires a permit)."
So it may be possible to design a storage building optimized to hold the above metal storage racks where the cost of the building would be lower than buying an Intermodal Shipping Container.
Note the containers I have are 8' x 20' (160 square feet floor area) and the permit free storage shed is specified at 120 square feet maximum so it should cost 120/160 75% less than a container to be at the same cost per square foot of floor area. So the 120 sf building should be on the order of $1500 max (2014 containers are about $2,000).
The internal dimensions of the storage shed should allow for a maximum number of metal storage racks and room to access them.
The construction should be weather proof and easy to build.
I have a 10' x 20' one now and the problem is that the bungee cords with the ball on the end biodegrade because of the ultraviolet rays from the sun. Another problem is that the tarp also disintegrated for the same reason.
The tarps seem to last a few years at most and maybe only last less than 2 years. The main problem is UV breaking down the tarp and the bungee cords. The parachute shroud lines hold up very well but they need to be installed with some slack so as to not cause excessive tension with the change in size caused by the summer to winter temperature differences.
19 Dec 2015
A possible improvement is to:
1. Use pipe insulation sleeving to lift the ridge line up off the pipe frame to lower wear.
2. Place the new tarp under the old tarp. The idea is that the old tarp will offer some sun protection for the new (bottom tarp).
3. An idea is to paint the top of the tarp with white outdoor paint that's UV resistant to help protect it. But have not tried that yet.
This one seems to have some improvements in terms of a flap that protects the bungee cords from the sun.
The ShelterLogic Max AP 10 ft. x 20 ft. White All Purpose 6-Leg Canopy might be an improvement. It was designed to be easily transported, i.e. it fits into a carry bag (# 15577) that's 42" x 20" x 18". Some of the tubes fit inside other tubes to save space. This means that this shelter probably costs more than one that uses longer tubes or tubes that are harder to take apart to move/store.
There are a number of accessories:
25757 Max AP 10 ft. x 20 ft. White All Purpose 6-Leg Canopy 25772
Enclosure Kit with Windows & Zip Up Door
Extension Roof Kit for both sides (adds 2 ea 7x20' roof panels & poles)
10 ft. x 20 ft. Sidewalls and Zip Up Doors Kit (no windows)
Screen Kit (like enclosure kit except all sides screened)
30" Earth Auger kit (replaces? 10073 Earth Auger kit)
Store-IT Canopy Rolling Storage Black Bag
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